In the thread "Umbrella Soapstone", AnnaLeeF suggested that we create a Soapstone Blog to capture and archive all the soapstone threads in the That Home Site's Kitchen forum. starpooh volunteered and created this blog with all the archived soapstone threads that were available after April 20, 2005.
Updates for suggestions to these threads may be made as comments, although starpooh continues to frequently update the "Soapstone Suppliers" thread.

All threads in Soapstone Blog Part 2 (after April 20, 2005) are listed on this page.
To search the blog use your browser's search function (Edit -> Find).
See the sidebar for a listing of all threads by date.

May 02, 05: soapstone countertop resources in Los Angeles

soapstone countertop resources in Los Angeles

Posted by apfb (My Page) on Mon, May 2, 05 at 16:41

Thanks to the Soapstone blog, it looks like there are at least two sources for architectural soapstone 9(SS) in S. CA-- Soapstone West, Escondido, and Bourget Bros, Santa Monica. More questions keep coming up:
1. Are there any other sources for architectural SS in S. CA?
2. Who is the best SS countertop installer in LA?
3. Has anyone ordered the SS from Vermont Soapstone Co and then had a local installer? How did that work out?

My genl contractor is a great guy with glowing rec's from former clients, but he's only done one SS countertop in the past 25 yr. He mostly installs granite/marble or Corian in his other jobs. Our SS countertop would be his second one. He frowned and shook his head when I discussed ordering SS from Vermont for him and his people to install. He thought the Vermont source had high potential for disaster.

Thanks.

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: soapstone countertop resources in Los Angeles

Anyone out there to answer this query?

RE: soapstone countertop resources in Los Angeles

Tom Shadley at Shadley Soapstone is the nicest guy you'll ever hope to meet. He fabricates and installs Green Mountain Soapstone. You can reach him at (626)806-5160

RE: soapstone countertop resources in Los Angeles

I can answer a little bit of it, but I'm still in the process of figuring all this out. I have slabs reserved for my kitchen at Walker Zanger in Sun Valley. It is Mariana soapstone and the slabs are lovely. We are 95% sure we will purchase these slabs- will make the decision shortly. I'm really excited. I haven't had them installed so I can't answer yet who is the best fabricator. Walker Zanger will not see more slabs until June or July, I was told - I got 4 of the last 5 slabs. They aren't sure if it will still be Mariana soapstone, however.
If you are interested in Green Mountain you should call Dave Mahony at ESI -- 951 232-6626. He should help you get in touch with Tom Shadley of Shadley Soapstone -- really nice,professional guy. He does fabrication of soapstone in the LA area. Apparently Green Mountain original is a little hard to come by in LA right now, but recently Tom found some in Anaheim. You would have to ask him about it.

Good luck -- have you tried Sierra Hills Stone? I believe they carry Mariana too and they are alot closer then Vermont.

RE: soapstone countertop resources in Los Angeles

Do you think that Tom would mind if I added "Shadley Soapstone" to the soapstone blog along with his phone number?
And what is ESI? Is this another soapstone resource that could be added to the blog?

RE: soapstone countertop resources in Los Angeles

Starpooh, can Tom email you directly with that answer? I'm going to be talking to him in the morning -- I'll email him the site of the blog and he can confirm with you about that. It seems best to leave it up to him. ESI is a company name I got from an email inquiry I made to Green Mountain Soapstone. They sent me the name and number of ESI as a supplier of Green Mountain Soapstone in SoCal. I'm sure it's probably fine to include them on the blog. Unfortunately I don't know what ESI stands for!

Thanks again for putting that blog together. It's really terrific.

mixedplate

RE: soapstone countertop resources in Los Angeles

Thanks for the help. Where are you finding all of the varieties of SS?

RE: soapstone countertop resources in Los Angeles

apfb, if I understand your question -- different companies/importers sell different soapstone varieties. I've learned about the different varieties from this site and doing my own searches. Just google soapstone counters if you haven't already. If you find something you like, email the company and see if they have a rep in Ca. Or just call places. Starpoos blog is excellent -- just go thru' all the old threads -- you'll learn about different soapstones and companies. Then get samples --

mixedplate

RE: soapstone countertop resources in Los Angeles

Mixed Plate,
I did a google search on soapstone and Walker Zanger popped up in my area (Salt Lake City) and then directed me to a local granite dealer that had no soapstone slabs.

Is there an actual warehouse in Sun Valley that you can say I want THAT slab and load it up in a truck or did you pick out a sample and it is being shipped to you?

If I can pick out my slab in Sun Valley I'll make a trip up there!
Scott

RE: soapstone countertop resources in Los Angeles

I just recently installed my ss countertop.I purchased my slabs from soapstone West. I used the fabricator my GC recomended. I am in agreement with nikkir. Tom Shadley is very forthcoming with good information. I have emailed him several times and he is very responsive. He can email you some work that he has done. I ahve only seen a few varieties of ss. I had originally wanted Cobra and after finding out that it is not available (at least on the West Coast) I chose to look at samples from Tim and Greg @ Soapstone West. I, too called Bourget and they told me they only had 1 variety at the time. Additionally, I looked at the sample at Expo and found it too green. I have evolved with my remodel and remained mutable. I chose Santa Rita and love evert is far more interesting and complex than I could have imagined. I am in awe of the product.

RE: soapstone countertop resources in Los Angeles

mixedplate - sure! Tom can email me through my gardenweb link. (Sorry, don't want to post my email directly on the forum. Too many spambots searching these forums.) http://members.gardenweb.com/members/starpooh
Glad you find the soapstone blog helpful. I'm trying add to the list of suppliers so please feel free to email me any that are not on the list!

Pwdrhdut - Try Cornerstone Masonry at warmstone.com. Their showroom is in Montana but they distribute in Utah. They have Tulikivi soapstone.

For anybody else looking for soapstone suppliers... please visit the blog!

Here is a link that might be useful: Soapstone Suppliers in blog

RE: soapstone countertop resources in Los Angeles

Pwdrhdut,

Yes, you can pick out your slabs at Walker Zanger in Sun Valley. Maybe you could have it shipped to a fabricator in your area, but I'm not sure. That said, as I stated above, they don't have anymore right now -- I bought all their last slabs except 2 -- and they were the only Walker Zanger in the area that had any soapstone. One of the ones left has a big single vein in it that is brownish and white. Kind of reminded me of bird doo doo, unfortunately. The other is quieter with spidery veins running thru' it. It's pretty. Walker Zanger said they hope to have slabs again by June.

Have you tried Sierra Hills Stone? I don't have any experience with them, but they might be a little closer...

good luck
Mixedplate

posted by starpooh @ 7:53 PM   1 comments

May 14, 05: soapstone too thick for plumbing fixtures?

soapstone too thick for plumbing fixtures?

Posted by StatelyOak (My Page) on Sat, May 14, 05 at 9:43

Soapstone is installed and plumber went to install a
Moen traditional bar faucet. The faucet expects a thinner
countertop. The soapstone is 1 3/8". Is it normal to
have to grind the soapstone down (from underneath of
course) where the plumbing fixtures get installed? Does
this need to be done on granite installations?

Thanks,
the oak

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: soapstone too thick for plumbing fixtures?

Didn't happen with our soapstone as far as I know. Ours is 1 1/4, though. They did ask that we have the faucets present at the installation, and they drilled for them then... so whether or not this is common, it sounds to me like your soapstone installers goofed. The plumber shouldn't have to be handling any fabrication issues.

RE: soapstone too thick for plumbing fixtures?

the fabricators should have asked for your faucet and sink model numbers. if the stem is too short, they drill concentric holes, similar to a countersink, w/ the outer hole capable of fitting then nut and washer.

RE: soapstone too thick for plumbing fixtures?

To install our taps, the soapstone was drilled as janedibber suggested with a wider hole for working around the plumbing countersunk from the bottom. The soapstone sink was similarly worked to accept the drain unit.

posted by starpooh @ 7:40 AM   0 comments

May 11, 05: Soapstone: How smooth? What grit?

Soapstone: How smooth? What grit?

Posted by Lynnski (My Page) on Wed, May 11, 05 at 9:50

The fabricator I'm using is a wizard with stone, although mostly he installs granite, not soapstone. He says that they finish soapstone at 100 grit, because it scratches less and stays darker longer than a finer (higher number) grit.

Can anyone speak from experience about how smooth their soapstone counters are? I love the warmth and smoothness of old soapstone, but I don't know how to compare the surface I want with what my guy is describing.

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Soapstone: How smooth? What grit?

This is an interesting question. When I went down to look at slabs at Soapstone West they said they finished the stone at either 120 or 220 and that 120 did take the mineral oil better. The display counter of Santa Rita I was told was 120 and it felt smooth enough for me. When I talked to another fabricator who doesn't work with only soapstone but has done a few kitchens with soapstone, he said he always finishes at 220. It's a little confusing.

My slabs are not done yet, so I can only offer this little tidbit of info. Hopefully some others will chime in -

RE: Soapstone: How smooth? What grit?

The 120 doesn't have that glorious soft 'feel' of soapstone, IMHO. Ours are honed to 220, and I much prefer that. Lots of the stone's appeal is tactile- might as well love to touch it!

RE: Soapstone: How smooth? What grit?

220 makes more sense to me on a gut level. I'm less concerned about scratches and more concerned about enjoying that delicious feel.

Vermont Soapstone Company says 80 grit in their literature, which is even coarser than my guy suggests. Any other opinions???

RE: Soapstone: How smooth? What grit?

I've heard that installing anything smoother than 80grit is what creates the complaints abuot scratches...as they disrupte the smooth as a babies bottom feel. But at 80grit, the scratches don't distract(as much), because the feel is already "textured".

Then (as previously stated) there is the oil absorbtion issue...

Now if I can just find out what grit equivalent "gauged" is, I can make a decsion on what condition to order my slabs!

Anyone know?

Regards,
M.J.

RE: Soapstone: How smooth? What grit?

"The 120 doesn't have that glorious soft 'feel' of soapstone, IMHO. Ours are honed to 220, and I much prefer that. Lots of the stone's appeal is tactile- might as well love to touch it! "

I'm with Pecanpie on this one. We DIY's ours, and had to sand down one piece as it was a little thicker than it's neighbor. We started at 80 grit (which had a bit of an 'orange peel' character), then 120 (smooth, but not that glorious silky feel), then 220 (aaaahh!).

I suspect the 'holding oil' issue is probably a temporary one, but can't say for sure since ours are still so new.

RE: Soapstone: How smooth? What grit?

I'm curious if you plan to sand all the scratches to maintain the 220 feel?

The cynic in me things you are setting yourself up for a long battle...ironic part is that I think my wife will end up wanting/demanding the 220grit as well!

RE: Soapstone: How smooth? What grit?

Gauged is quite rough, not even close to 80grit. Imagine the parallel lines made by a typical bandsaw or jigsaw, if you do any woodworking. It is not a finished surface at that point. I am considering Alberene Soapstone, which you can get rouch slabs that are gauged. Sanding myself would probably cause a non-flat surface, so if I go that route I will rough cut the slabs to size, then take them to a local stone place to hone, then finish them up.

RE: Soapstone: How smooth? What grit?

  • Posted by: Mjfc (My Page) on Thu, May 12, 05 at 14:34
I just got my stone from Alberene and had them do it to 400. I had an Alberene sample at 220 and it was slightly textured and a sample of Churchill that was smooth at 400. I thought I read some past threads that discussed 400 grit. Now I am a bit curious. The stone won't be installed for a week or so and is still crated. I guess I will have to wait and report back. I originally liked the finish of the VT Soapstone. Then I started receiving all these smoother stones and went that way.

RE: Soapstone: How smooth? What grit?

I have no idea what grit my soapstone was sanded to but it's smooth as "a baby's butt" for sure. I felt the VT soapstone at the Historic home show this past Jan and honestly was shocked at how NOT smooth it was, it felt like orange peel, in a bad way. Yes the scratches show more with a smoother surface but as someone mentioned so much of soapstone's appeal is the tactile. We have "original" soapstone from Bucks County Soapstone.

RE: Soapstone: How smooth? What grit?

skivino, we have the same stone and I couldn't agree more. Mine has now been in for years and it looks as good as when it was installed. I never gave a second thought to the "grit" issue. I expected it to feel like the soapstone we had as kids. Maybe the poster could call BCSS and ask what grit they use? I think I was the person who said soapstone was for "tactile" and not pristine people. As you age, patina becomes more desireable.

RE: Soapstone: How smooth? What grit?

To help us get a sense of the grit, our stone guy brought a sample by over the weekend. He took a 14" section of "our" slab, and finished half at 100 and half at 220 grit. While the 100 was evenly textured and didn't feel like orange peel, it did not have the delightful tactility of the 220, which was irresistably smooth. Yes, the smoother stone definitely scratched more easily, and the scratches were not as well-hidden with the application of more mineral oil/beeswax as the scratches on the 100-grit side.

I think that because our guy usually works with granite and granite customers, he's thinking that scratching is unacceptable. I had to remind myself that I never wanted the harshness of granite; I value the heat and stain resistance of soapstone, and its gorgeous good looks, and don't care about its showing the inevitable dings and scratches of life.

posted by starpooh @ 7:23 AM   0 comments

May 14, 05: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

Posted by nikkir (My Page) on Sat, May 14, 05 at 11:37

Do you have soapstone counters with a different type of sink? Please post pictures if possible.

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

Yes! We have a stainless steel sink, and we love it. We have stainless appliances, too, so the sink fits right in. There are pics of our kitchen on My Page, but I think Yahoo! Photos is ill today. I couldn't even see my own pictures. You might try later, though. :-)

Here is a link that might be useful: Kohler Staccato stainless steel sink

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

We have a soapstone carved apron front sink and also a stainless prep sink with my soapstone countertops. They both look great!!

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

I have an Herbeau fireclay single bowl apron sink with soapstone. Pics link is on my page. The kitchen is still in progress I'm embarrassed to say.

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

We're trying saopstone with Blanco's Silgranit in Anthracite - despite never having seen the two together. Sure Hope it looks good. I'll post pictures and a critique when done.

We changed our minds from granite to soapstone after ordering cabinets, so couldn't do a farm sink. Lots of copper and ORB, so I couldn't see stainless, and white would have just shouted "Look at Me!", but I really don't want my sinks to be the focal point. So...

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

We're still working on our DIY soapstone tile countertop--finishing touches this weekend if it kills me. We have white cabinets and a Kohler white cast iron undermount sink. I think it looks great...but after all the sweat we've put into it, I think probably anything would look great! I'll try to get some photos tonight or tomorrow--final sanding is going on as I type, and then we'll oil and reinstall upper cabinets. Then I can take photos! Woo-hoo!

Susan

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

I am doing two undermount Blaco Magnum sinks with my ss. One is a smaller prep sink and the other is my main sink.

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

Great question nikkir! I'm trying to decide on a sink, too, after coming to the conclusion that a copper apron front just won't work with the rest of my choices : (

Have you seen the matte black fireclay sinks? I'm wondering how they would look? I really love the white farm sink look...katalina-your kitchen has been one of my favorites since first coming to this forum! What type of ss do you have? I can't recall...

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

We have a Stainless Steel undermount (Kindred platinum series) sink with our soapstone. We have SS range, fridge and vent hood so it looks fine.

Here's a not so great shot of the sink w/soapstone.

Here is a link that might be useful: stainless sink w/soapstone

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

This is *hands down* my single-most difficult decision. I *so* love soapstone sinks and white fireclay sinks and I simply cannot make up my mind. In my mind, a soapstone sink seems more durable and utilitarian. I wouldn't have to obsess about whether it looks clean; on the other hand, I really like the feeling of a sparkling clean kitchen (when I'm not cooking in it) and would the darkness or rusticness (is that a word?) of a soapstone sink somehow give the feeling of not being sparkly clean?

On the other hand, I love the whiteness of the fireclay, and would love that it looks great when it's all sparkly clean, but will I have to constantly be cleaning it to make it look (and stay) that way? DH has a habit of pouring out coffee and not rinsing the sink afterwards.

These are just things that I keep thinking about as I try to make a decision myself, so I feel your pain. Is there any reason why you would not like a soapstone sink? What are your thoughts about all the other options available? Is there something that you are really drawn to?

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

tanders, I wish I could say that I had options, but at this point I do not. I never intended to do an entire kitchen reno, but that is exactly what my project morphed into. I came to choose soapstone VERY late in the game, when I was having to wait for a new shipment of my original choice for countertops. Once I saw the soapstone I had to have it, though I thought long and hard about the softness of it.

My preference would be a soapstone sink, but, early on, I purchased a white cast iron undermount sink. I checked to see if I could return it and pay a restocking fee and was told that the supplier would not allow it. I am very sad, but there is nothing I can do. Besides, I don't imagine that my cabinetry can be altered.

I THINK the sink will look okay because my cabinets and beadboard wainscoting will be white, but I asked the question for reassurance. The soapstone will be installed on May 23, provided my #$%@# cabinet guy finishes his part of the project.

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

Oh, nikkir,
If that's the reason you were asking, I think that the white cast iron will look just fine--GREAT in fact, considering you will also have the white wainscoting and cabinets. Nice combination--you'll be fine....

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

nikkir, I feel your pain. My cabinet guys started in November! It certainly hasn't all been their fault, but wow, is this a slow process.

Katalina - why do you feel embarassed?! You shouldn't. I would have been done long ago, but I was holding out for "what I want". Well, that has morphed into "when can it please be DONE?" and I am dealing with bad hinges at the moment. Still, all I need now are the DW and fridge panels and I can have the painters come back. So - I hate to say this - but it will be done soon!

Anyway, I have a Shaw's original with my soapstone, and I *love* it.

Here goes - hope Webshots cooperates.

Here is a link that might be useful: My sink/countertop

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

Orchidluvr,

Seems my posting last night was bumped..

Somehow I have missed your kitchen until now-It is AWESOME!

Are your SS counters from Green Mountain SS? I'm looking at Vermont SS thru my distributor. Also, what paint color is on your beadboard/cabs/trim?

Again, fantastic job !

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

Yes, orchidluvr's kitchen is gorgeous. And thanks for the advice regarding 3' soapstone backsplash versus none. There seems to an equal divide, so I guess I can't go wrong!

So, what about beadboard backsplash right down to the counter? What has been your experience? Will water seep through and what about clean up?

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

Katalina, I'm in love with your kitchen in progress! It has a great combination of vintage & modern to it that I love.

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

Here's a "Just done" shot of Vermont Soapstone "Mt. Holly" aka "Marianna" with a Kohler Cast Iron undermount in white. Ours is a DIY tile installation, but I swear you can't see the seams, so it should give you an idea of the combination. I also have white cabinets, and they come down to the countertop here to give a china cabinet kinda look. I think the white sink really pops with the veins of the soapstone, and I think it looks great--but ymmv. Hope this helps!
Image hosted by Photobucket.com
Image hosted by Photobucket.com
Good luck!
Susan

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

Congratulations, Susan -- It looks wonderful! Your white to-the-counter cabinets are beautiful and it's great to hear you can't see the seams. Long weekend?

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

Cindymouse - Thanks a lot! I love the space, but I just can't wait for it to be **done**. Enough already!!! I want to put everything away and clean house (did I just say that?)

My cabinets are Pittsburgh Paint's Candlewick, and yes, it is Green Mountain SS. I love it, but it is a bit on the soft side and nicks easily.

Deb - I haven't had a problem with the beadboard so far, but I really haven't had the kitchen in heavy use. I don't think it will be a problem, though. The SS backsplash seems to catch the splashes from the sink.

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

The black silgranite sink was the first element I chose (back when I thought I'd be top-mounting with a laminate counter). The kitchen project "expanded in scope," as they say, and the sink will be undermounted in soapstone. It supposed to happen this week. I can only hope!

Sweeby--when is your installation due to take place? I think we're on the same wavelength with that luscious soapstone and the period-utilitarian-looking silgranite.

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

Lynnski - We're DIYing, so who knows!? ;-) Upper cabs have been hung and lowers are probably going in tomorrow on one wall. I'm trying to nudge the sink install forward since our laundry sink is at the complete opposite end of the house, but DH knows better... I could probably persuade him to hold the sink up next to our bar counter (also soapstone) that IS complete for a sneak peek visual.

Don't know what I'll do if I don't love it though... There's no white in sight in my kitchen, no stainless either. Could go with copper, but then the sink would be a focal point, which, because of my shall we say 'casual' housekeeping style, is not what I want.

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

Good luck, Sweeby. I don't WANT a sneak peek visual!! We are casual housekeepers, too, and I hope this arrangement will make the sink understated, even though it is in a prominent position. There is no back-up plan. Just to hide the dishes in the sink... and swoon over the counters!

RE: Soapstone Counters Without Soapstone Sink?

Amen, sister! I want my sinks to disappear and let the countertops steal the show.

posted by starpooh @ 9:43 PM   0 comments

May 4, 05: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Soapstone Holy Grail??

Posted by BrianWhite (My Page) on Wed, May 4, 05 at 14:50

Long:
I tested two darkening agents on my soapstone last night and (at least as of this morning) I am very encouraged by the results. Before I get into what the products are, let me give you my soapstone background. I have fairly soft Brazilian soapstone in my kitchen that I installed myself. I started using mineral oil to darken the counters and (like most people) I was not happy with the eventual (and often rapid) evaporation of the oil. Several months ago, I graduated to a mineral oil/ bees wax mixture. This certainly retained the dark look longer, but usually by just a few days. While playing around with my own counters, I recently installed Alberene soapstone in a Craftsman style spec home I am building. I am using it in the kitchen (along with a soapstone farm sink and a smaller island vegetable sink) and in two of the three bathrooms. I do not want to go off on a tangent, but the Alberene soapstone is significantly harder than the stuff in my own home. Anyways, upon the final installation of the Alberene soapstone, I promptly oiled the counters with the mineral oil/bees wax product. Once completely oiled, the counters look fantastic!! Of course, I was horrified when I returned the next morning and 85% of the counters were back to their natural color. I know that oil evaporates, but I swear little soapstone pixies must have arrived during the night and sanded the oil off of the counters. Not to be deterred, I re-oiled the counters (using an abundant amount of oil) thinking that it takes a few times for the counters to get completely saturated. Wrong! Apparently the pixies had another busy night, because by the next day, you would never known that I re-oiled the counters. At this point I decided I needed the heavy artillery so I ordered some pure tung oil and I called Alberene for advice. Alberene stated that they do not suggest mineral oil; rather, they use a product called Tenax Ager. I promptly called Tenax and they helped me source the product in Chicago. I purchased it yesterday at almost the same time that the tung oil arrived.

So, with all of the background info out in the open, I conducted my test last night. The first thing I did was apply the tung oil on the counters in my house. I applied a liberal amount and then wiped off all of the excess. I then went over to the house I am building and re-sanded the counters so that not a drop of the old oil was present. I washed the counters and when dry, I applied the Tenax Ager.

Results:
Tung Oil - Unlike mineral oil, which stays in a liquid state and evaporates over a period of time, the tung oil has dried overnight. The result is a counter that looks like it has been freshly oiled, however, the dried oil will not come off on my hands or on a white paper towel. The oil has essentially formed a wet-look shell on the counters. Overall, I am pleased. Obviously, I do not know how this "shell" will respond to regular cleaning, but already, tung oil seems like a significant improvement.

Tenax Ager - I preface my remarks by saying that I am not a salesman for Tenax. I am simply a man who is way too enthusiastic about soapstone. I tease my wife by saying, "next to soapstone, I love you more than anything." Pathetic� I know. Anyways, as I applied the Ager, I started to get a "eureka" feeling. The directions from the guy at Tenax were to put the Ager on with a sponge in small areas and then immediately wipe off the excess. As soon as put the Ager on, the counters turned jet black. This, in and of itself, doesn't mean anything. However, as I wiped off the excess, the counters stayed black!! Unlike oil, the Ager is not thick. It pours and spreads like water. In addition, the color it leaves behind is not a glossy black, the way oil looks when you first apply it. Rather, as soon as you wipe off the excess, it turns and stays a matt black. Needless to say, I felt very encourage when I went home last night. When I went back this morning, there was no change. I went back again this afternoon and they are still black!

Lessons:
From what I understand, the Ager should keep the counters dark; however, wherever the soapstone scratches, the original color will show through. At that point, the counters can be touched up with either more Ager or tung/mineral oil.

I'm not sure if I have found the Holy Grail or not, but I found something that seems promising. As I stated before, the tung oil and the Ager may rub off after a few wipe downs ... only time will tell. If anyone is interested, I will post a follow-up.

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Thanks for the info - the tenax sounds great!

Soapstone Oil

Tenax Ager� can also be applied to permanently darken soapstone, but it will
not penetrate to the core of the material as does mineral oil. Applying
Tenax Ager� upon installation and maintaining surface with mineral oil has
resulted as the most practical solution for maintaining soapstone.

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Oh yes, keep the info coming! Stupid question, but... what's in this stuff?

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Carole,
I think your quote comes from a web site(Stone Canyon ?)I read yesterday while researching the Ager. The quote confused me as I thought nothing "penetrates to the core" of soapstone... not even mineral oil. As I said to my wife, "I think I am a leading expert on Soapstone." That's sad considering how little I know.

Retro Rabbit,
Actually that's a good question. The answer ... lot's of chemicals. However, Tenax said the Ager is food safe when dry. Much like most granite sealers.

Thanks,
Brian

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Hey Brian, since you live in/near Chicago, would you mind sharing where you buy your soapstone from? I can't imagine a better recommendation than someone who's so fanatical about it. :)

If you'd rather, you can e-mail off the board (from "My Page.")

Thanks!

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Im another Chicagoan shopping for slabs!

Please share the rest of the 411 :)

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Holy Grail or Transparent Glue??

I fear the latter. Tenax Ager is a transparent glue (made with sythetic resins and styrene, a carcinogen); this substance is used to seal or impregnate porous stone. It provides a semipermanent wet look the chemical way!

Knowledgeable soapstone retailers would tell you to stay away from anything but a food-safe oil. Applying a transparent glue to the surface of dense soapstone defeats the very purpose of soapstone.

Again, soapstone does not require sealing. It does not, in fact, even require oiling. Oiling does not seal soapstone, it merely creates a pleasing optical effect.

The MSDS sheet alone should scare users off!! Sheesh!

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

For slabs, I purchased my original ones through US Granite Sales in Des Plaines (847-824-9200). The place where I purchased the Tenax Ager also has access to slabs - T&M Supply in Wheeling (847-419-0441). The slabs are large and heavy (600lbs) but if you can get them delivered and placed flat on some 2x4's, I have found that they are not difficult to process. You can get a water circular saw from Home Depot (add a diamond blade) and you�re off to the races. Just have someone help you lift the pieces. Finally, the stone from these companies comes from Brazil. It is fairly easy to scratch, but it looks beautiful with lots of great veins. The scratches are easily hidden with oil or sanded away. Oh yea � many of these wholesale companies do not want to sell to end users, because fabricators (their primary customers) don�t like it if the average Joe is making his/her own counter tops. If they ask, simply tell these companies that you specialize in soapstone and then start rattling off "interesting" soapstone facts. By this time their eyes will glaze over and they will be more than happy to sell you anything as long as you go away. Making up some business cards on your PC won�t hurt either.
Thanks,
Brian

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Kecs,
I'm not sure I agree with you. Two "knowledgeable" soapstone companies advocate the use of this (Alberene and Stone Canyon). Also, I spoke with an engineer at Tenax and he said the product, once dry, is food safe and that the chemicals do not "migrate" onto food. Finally, aren't almost all popular sealers chemicals? The entire granite and marble industry uses these products with no ill effect.
I think that I am in the same boat as many stoners (not all). I understand that soapstone is dense and non-porous. I'm not looking for anything to seal it. I'm simply looking for something to keep the stone dark. Mineral oil just isn't cutting it for me.
Thanks,
Brian

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Brian,

I didn't expect you to agree with me.

My purpose in posting was to express dismay at your distinctly counter-intuitive solution to a nonproblem.

Sure, for every 100 stoners here who struggle, or don't, with oil applications for just the right look, there'll be one, like you, inexplicably content with the permanent, chemical wet look.

Chacun son gout!

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Kecs,
I can appreciate your "Zen" approach to soapstone, but I'm puzzled by your passive-aggressiveness toward my approach. My solution is not counter-intuitive. In fact it is appropriately intuitive. I perceive shortcomings with mineral oil, and I'm trying to find a better way. My intuition says that anyone who wants the dark/wet look oils his or her soapstone. People, who don't want that look, leave the soapstone natural. It makes perfect sense that if you want it dark, you might look for the best way to make it dark and keep it dark. My brief experience, as documented in my original posting, is telling me that Ager and tung oil work better than mineral oil at darkening the soapstone. Based on my experience with this board, many people are looking for the wet look, and my guess is that if they could find a permanent solution, they might embrace it. Perhaps there are others on this board who want to know about my experiments and who, as a result, may be "inexplicably content with the permanent, chemical wet look."
Chacun a son gout back at you:)

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Brian,

God. I left out a French preposition! Chacun a son gout!

To each his own, indeed. Soapstone has--I have--no zen. Soapstone is impervious to zen and most everything else. It suffers, however, when you slop glue on it.

Kris

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

My heart weeps at the thought of soapstone quietly suffering. ;)

I say if it makes you happy, have at it. They're your counters! I can imagine that no matter how much you love soapstone, oiling it over and over and over would get old. So either you forgo the wet look you once adored, or you find another way.

Kudos for finding another way.

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Actually, I am wondering if part of the issue is the type of soapstone. Ours stays black, or very nearly black, for a long time, as long as there is no standing water on it. We do have to oil more frequently around the sinks to keep it looking uniform, but that's a fairly small area, so that's not such a big chore.

We did notice that our island was staying black longer than our main expanse... the difference was that we'd put a thicker coat on the island originally, then let it sit overnight, then let a thinner coat sit... well, several days, because someone covered it up with a tarp while other work was being done in the room. We did something similar with the long counter, and now it is holding its color longer.

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

I have noticed with my Alberene sample (probably more than others) that it looses the oil rather quickly. Alberene also had another pretty variety called Churchill. I actually think I might of liked it better but they are out of it for a few weeks. This is an even harder stone than the Alberene and definately is darker and holds the oil better. There is veining and such to the stone but it is all dark (no white viens).

I appreciate hearing alternatives but might be hesitant myself to try it. I have been curious about the mineral oil all along since it has an expiration date on it to begin with. ??

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

"We did notice that our island was staying black longer than our main expanse... the difference was that we'd put a thicker coat on the island originally, then let it sit overnight, then let a thinner coat sit... well, several days"

We did this with our original sample also, and it hasn't been oiled in about 2 months and still looks very dark. I think there's something to the "glop it on and let it sit" approach. It's just so hard to resist polishing these beauties... ;-)

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Please keep the updates coming Brian! I have had my soapstone for a little over a month. Purchased from Hummingbird Soapstone in Glen Ellyn (a distributor of Green Mountain) I have 4 slabs that are "happy slabs" with an oiling every 7-10 days at this point with the time frame getting longer in between oilings. BUT I also have 1 "rebel slab" that I have had to oil every 2-3 days just to keep it somewhere in the realm of the other "happy slabs". I actually like the inbetween "chalky whitish grey" and "dark shiney black/green".

By the way- we purchased our granite (labradorite) from T&M- they are good people to work with in the stone business for anyone in Chicago interested in Soapstone/granite/marble. If you purchase their soapstone make sure you have a good fabricator their slabs are rough cut versions only.

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

I've been paying attention to soapstone threads for my next home,
and I would be interested in a more lasting oiling look but Brian the real test of the product will definitely be in heavy usage, constant wiping of the surfaces, which cleaning products, how the counters will stand to the test; please keep us posted of your findings....

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

My experience from testing samples is that those from Alberene and the Mariana (Holly Oak also) stay dark much longer and do not scratch as easily as the stones with a lot of veining and color variations. On samples, the latter stones require oiling every day or so, while the Alberene and Mariana haven't required reoiling.

The stones from Alberene come from the US?

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

My ss has been for a couple of years. I love to oil, so that was not an issue for me and it improved the condition of my cuticles. My experience suggests that oil needs to be applied before any wax is added to the mixture. The wax would seem to make the surface more impervious to the oil application and produce a lighter surface. Thanks for the wax hint kecs! I make my own blend of wax and oil often adding a little flavor for aroma therapy. Does that have any impact on the Zen element? I will continue to oil and wax/oil as that is just part of the ss thing for me and has produced a wonderful surface. My other counters are cherry and it has enhanced those counters as well.

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

I oiled my soapstone when it went in last May. I used 2 or 3 coats of pure tung oil. I haven't needed to oil it since. A few spots are starting to look scratched, so I may oil it again in the next few weeks.

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Alberene soapstone is quarried in Virginia.

I still don't understand how soapstone can both be "nonporous" and need repeated coatings of oil in order to "saturate" the stone. Will soapstone eventually darken if you do nothing at all to it? Are oils and Tenax both coatings that are not absorbed by the stone but simply coatings that lie on top of it?

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Ellene--I don't understand it either! LOL. The oil does not absorb into the stone and it doesn't become saturated. Still people seem to have difficulty conveying what the oil does do, so they resort to saying it is "absorbed". The oil does stay on the top.

Not sure how I, personally, feel about a permanent "wet look". Doesn't seem right to me. And I hope when folks say "wet look" they are referring to the color and not the shininess. I got my soapstone because I wanted a matte look. I like how the color lightens over time. My stone is always changing.

You would think that people who wanted a permanently dark and shiny stone would choose something other than soapstone. But that's just me. :)

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

I should have clarified that the wet look provided by Tenax is really a dark matt finish. Other than the first few seconds when it is literally wet, the finish quickly becomes matt. It is now the third day since applying the Tenax Ager and the stone is still dark; however, it has faded a little bit. I will probably apply another coat or two over the next week.

It is obvious from the comments to my original post that there is a mixed bag of feelings about oiling soapstone. In my mind this is great. It is part of the interactive allure of the stone. For me, finding something that darkens the stone does not take away from the appeal. It is still silky and smooth to the touch. It still scratches easier than other stones and it still requires a little more TLC than granite. These are all things I love about soapstone regardless of whether it stays dark longer with Tenax or oil. In addition to this, although I am not even remotely artistic, the soapstone counters are something that I created. If it were another material, I would be unable to process the counter tops, but soapstone was a medium that I could work with. Instead of a chisel or paint brush I used a sander, file, saw and router to create something that I hope will be enjoyed 100 years from now. Not to be overly dramatic, but this is part of the joy I get out of soapstone. So, based on this I can see why many soapstoners love the relationship they have with soapstone. It is something they can interact with and affect the look of on a daily or weekly basis. It has a more organic quality ... as I warned you earlier, I am pathetic.

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Brian,

when are you going to post pics of your house/kitchen you're building? We'd love to see it.

-a

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Aphilla,
I'll try to do that soon. In another week the project should be completely done. I'll take a number of pictures. Some of the things I have put into this spec house are:
1) Large (5x7) doorless/walk-in shower (with wall jets) instead of a small shower and spa tub.
2) Soapstone in the kitchen, master bath and main hall bath.
3) Elaborate trim work/ casing.
4) Dark mahogany stained trim balanced with high ceilings and lots of windows.
5) Slate in two of the bathrooms, laundry room and mudroom.
6) Cedar shingle siding and wonderful Wisconsin stone on the outside.
7) 4 dominant craftsman squared/ tapered columns on the outside.

I'm excited to post some pictures as many of the elements I incorporated were borrowed from people who post on this site.

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

I actually live in the next 'burb over and would love to take a look. I keep an eye on new construction, and this
sounds like a great house.

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

aphilla,
The house is on Chestnut just north of Maude. I am normally there around 4:30 or 5:00. If you see a maroon Dodge truck, please feel free to stop in.
Thanks

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Found it, Brian. I hope I get a chance to catch you
over there. I stood on the porch and looked in. What
a great house! Loads of character. That's the
neighborhood we were looking in a year ago and that's
the kind of house we would have jumped on had it been
available. I think you've got great taste!

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Sounds wonderful, Brian. You are a true craftsman/artist.
It is a real gift to be able to create a home with character.

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

My soapstone counters were installed yesterday and they got their first drink of oil right away. I noticed a large paler irregular "blotch" where the stone didn't take the oil the same way as the rest of the counter. Is it possible to have such a varition in the actual composition of the stone or do you think it is, as I hope, something on the surface? Does anyone know if I should continue to treat the counters or should I stop and sand the offending area first. I am intrigued by the tung oil and am going to try some on a sample piece asap. I will order the tenax also but do I have to sand whole surface and wash etc before applying?

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Please keep adding your results. I've had my SS countertops for over a year now and have been using mineral oil to darken them, applying it less frequently as time does by. I usually put it on liberally and let it sit over night before rubbing it with a soft cloth. After reading about tung oil, I decided to apply some in a small area that is normally covered by a small rack with cookbooks. I'm letting it dry now and opened a window to air out the room.

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

burgelane--
It is possible for the soapstone to have lighter blotches--at one time there was a certain type of soapstone called "clouds" because it had larger areas of lighter color.

But just as likely is that it's not holding the oil uniformly. I had a few areas like this, and they all evened out eventually (within a few weeks). Just keep slathering the oil on.

Make certain that the areas of the stone your're concerned about are polished exactly the same as the rest of the stone. You probably won't be able to sand this out, so I wouldn't do anything hasty.

As the oil wears off, you'll notice it less. Everyone keeps saying, and it's true: you won't have to oil the counters much after the first half year or so. They will stay a medium grey which I actually like better than the freshly-oiled black.
Pamela

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Stately Oak,
Thank you for the compliments. I will be finishing the house this week, and unavailable the following week, but if you want the "grand tour" during the week of May 23rd, I would be happy to walk you through, particularly to show off the soapstone. If so, you can contact me via my business email at rehabbing@msn.com
Thanks,
Brian

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Only slightly OT, Brian- any suggestions for removing unsanded caulk and oil-based paint from soapstone?

My only real 'grrrr' in this whole remodel- Tile Guy assumed that since soapstone is not porous, that nothing will stick to it, and didn't bother to bring drop cloths to do the backsplash!!!!!! Hey, buddy- this stuff's not Teflon, ya know!

His response was to sand off the places where the grout hit. Uh, no. I've got to intercept him this AM so he doesn't slosh the sealer all over the soapstone as well.

Thanks in advance!

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

pecanpie,
I would use a small putty knife/paint scraper tool (with a steel blade). Keeping the tool very flat (so as not to gouge the stone), easily work/scrape the caulk and paint off. My guess is that it will come of pretty easily particularly if there was previously a layer of oil on the soapstone. From there, you can sand the remaining bits of paint and caulk off the stone and then re-oil. Good as new!
Hope this helps.

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Stone was not oiled before, but I'll try the steel blade scraper. Thanks!

RE: Soapstone Holy Grail??

Brian's soapstone report, actual Brian's house report:

I stopped by this afternoon and he happened to be there.
He's built a lovely house! It's an Arts and Craft style
with a few contemporary touches that are very true to
the Arts and Crafts spirit. I hope he's able to post
some pics soon.

His soapstone is really beautiful and it fits very well
with the rest of his kitchen selections. Very nicely done!

posted by starpooh @ 9:34 PM   0 comments

May 11, 05: soapstone installation peculiarity?

soapstone installation peculiarity?

Posted by StatelyOak (My Page) on Wed, May 11, 05 at 19:37

Did anyone have their faucet holes drilled on site? Soapstone was delivered and installed on Monday with
cutouts for the undermount sink, but no holes for the
faucets. They're coming back tomorrow to install the
butcher block, and I guess the plumber will be there.
Should I be concerned?

Thanks
SO

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: soapstone installation peculiarity?

They did my silestone that way. I guess it's easier do do the smaller holes on site than trying to get everything done prefab. Lucky for me they did as they found that the hole they where going to put the faucet in was too close to the backsplash for my ladylux faucets.

RE: soapstone installation peculiarity?

We did ours onsite. My husband, the plumber and I worked out exactly what was needed. It was a lot better than having to decide beforehand.

posted by starpooh @ 9:30 PM   0 comments

May 11, 05: Cutting Soapstone

Cutting Soapstone

Posted by Liamlunchtray (My Page) on Wed, May 11, 05 at 17:27

I was curious as to how difficult it is to cut. I know that they reccomend a diamond blade - Are there different types of diamond blades available? Any work better than others? Also, my circular saw is just a $50 Craftsman cheapie. Will this be enough to make it through or will I need to track down something beefier and more contractor grade? I dont have that much to cut - basically I will need to trim one slab to length, the on a 60"x30" slab I will need to take off the excess 4" and then cut it to length. I am using the Ipenema Reserve from M.Teixera

Liam

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Cutting Soapstone

We had great success with an $88 hand-held 4" diamond blade wet saw purchased from Home Depot (tile aisle, not tool coral). DH kept saying "Gosh this is easy!" We (OK, that would be 'he') also drilled some faucet holes and some smaller cuts with regular woodworking tools, and that was less easy, but still very do-able.

If you look on eBay, you should be able to find a 4" diamond blade wet saw for not very much money. Don't know if they work as well, but they very well could. The HD one is yellow and comes in a nice plastic case.

RE: Cutting Soapstone

I thought that you didn't need a wet saw for cutting soapstone. I was told you could use regular wood working tools.

Woodworking Tools

Regular woodworking tools DO work...

but not as well as a diamond-blade wet saw. And for one that works so well and can be used for lots of other things, the $88 is a good investment.

RE: Cutting Soapstone

I actually have one of those cheap 4" wet saws - My question is how on earth do you get a full countertop up onto it? The body of my saw is plastic, I would think the weight of the counter would crush it.

Liam

Wet Saw

Different type of saw... HD also has a 'table saw' type that gets lousy performance reviews - even from the folks at HD.

This one looks like a small circular saw. It's metal with a nice weight to it. It has a bottom plate that the blade protrudes down past (1 3/8" max. thickness), and you work your material from the top side.

posted by starpooh @ 9:25 PM   0 comments

May 9, 05: Honed Soapstone?

Honed Soapstone?

Posted by schmoopy (My Page) on Mon, May 9, 05 at 16:01

After reading all the discussions about soapstone from all you East Coasters and seeng a small sample of it at Expo, I have wanted to get soapstone counters for my Northern California home. I want it for the warmth, the surface variation and the patina of scratches/chips. I was really surprised today, however, when I went to the only supplier of soapstone in the Sacramento area. They only had "honed" soapstone from Brazil, which was dense (no scratches), almost shiny and without variation, like a chalkboard. Did I just have the wrong image in my mind or is this something different?

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Honed Soapstone?

Before oiling, soapstone is kind of a uniform dull gray. AFTER oiling, you see the veins, a lovely 'glow' (not shine) and lots of warmth. You would need to get a sample and oil it to know for sure what your sample piece looks ike. Water will give you a hint.

Your chalkboard comparison is a good one. Think of a blackboard after it's been written on and erased a lot, but not washed. That compares pretty well to 'pre-oiled' soapstone. Now imagine that same blackboard still damp from sponge-wiping -- that's what oiled soapstone looks like.

RE: Honed Soapstone?

It might also be the type of soapstone they had. The look oiled or not can really vary. There are some stones out there that have minimal to no veining and will still look uniform like a blackboard when oiled. Ask them what the name of the stone is.

RE: Honed Soapstone?

No, this soapstone, with the honed finish seems to even repel water...almost as if there is a finish on it (other than oil) already. It just doesn't sound like the descriptions everyone has given. I think I will have to broaden my search for more soapstones...

RE: Honed Soapstone?

When I was getting samples for my soapstone...(which I ultimately didn't get because the supplier couldn't meet my builder's timeline although there had been PLENTY of communication about that!!)...I had samples that were honed at different levels. Some I received were 200 grit, 220 grit, 400,600, and 800. I purchased a beautiful bowl that was 1800 grit honed. The 1800 was like glass, very slick. The 200-grit was somewhat rough. Not pleasing to me and would capture paper towel lint when wiped off. I like the feel of the ones that were 400- to 600-grit honed. Perhaps the piece you had seen was honed at a higher grit (it would then be more polished looking, but not yet shiny) and had Tenax (or equivalent) applied to it. ??

posted by starpooh @ 9:21 PM   0 comments

May 8, 05: Stoners, soapstone suck light out of room

Stoners, soapstone suck light out of room

Posted by edwena (My Page) on Sun, May 8, 05 at 14:46

I have a fairly light kitchen and am planning soapstone on island and lengthwise wall counter. Not an L. A furniture piece will be on other part of L wall and will be carera. Will the matt black soapstone suck out the light? My daughter-in law suggested carara on the island (sink is there). What do you think.

Thanks

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Stoners, soapstone suck light out of room

I have white cabinets and my soapstone is being installed Tuesday. I am also putting carrara marble on my island, which I am so excited about. I guess it is the reverse of what you are doing. I'm not sure where your eye will be drawn if your island is ss or marble.

RE: Stoners, soapstone suck light out of room

We have all soapstone counters, nine feet on each perimeter run, plus 8 foot island, plus peninsula. Since the cabinets are light, there is no problem. We have no windows, but we do have a central skylight over the island.

RE: Stoners, soapstone suck light out of room

Edwena - I think you're wise to be cautious on this point. Soapstone is dark and matte-finish, so it does tend to make the room much darker.

We recently installed soapstone in our bar area. Before the soapstone went in, my DH said he thought the bar light fixture was WAY too bright and that we needed to install a dimmer. After the dimmer was installed and the soapstone went in and was oiled, I turned on the lights and DH said how much better the bar looked "now that the lights weren't so bright." Little did he know, the dimmer was turned up to full brightness. The soapstone absorbed enough of the light to make it look perfect.

RE: Stoners, soapstone suck light out of room

This is a good point. We have soapstone on a long counter and a 9' island. The room has a big window, but that side of the house is a little dark at certain times of day, and we find ourselves using the lights a lot. It has occurred to me that the room might have been a bit brighter if we hadn't gone with matte black countertops. But it's really not bad.

We would have loved to go with carrera marble for the island, and actually considered it at one point, but I just didn't think our housekeeping skills were up to it. I don't regret that decision, either -- we have carrera elsewhere in the house, and I really do think soapstone is more easy-care.

My DH might disagree about the regrets though. As we found out, soapstone is definitely not as nice as marble for rolling out dough.

RE: Stoners, soapstone suck light out of room

Those that feel that their kitchen is darker because of the matt black soapstone, do you notice the darkness more during the day, or at night?

Thanks

RE: Stoners, soapstone suck light out of room

Easy enough to add more lighting for night use: the big question is, does the room have enough natural light during the day that artificial light isn't needed?

If its super bright, no prob, and if its already too dark, you'd just as well go for what you want and resign yourself to running the lights pretty much all the time. OTOH, if its borderline, you may need to spend some time balancing your options: large swaths of near black will make the room seem darker. It may be worth it, though I personally hate having to turn on the lights in the daytime.

Issues like floor, wall and ceiling colors, window treatments, etc. will all play a role here.

Since [I think] we're talking about a room that already exists, you could 'test drive' the light level by covering the counters with a very dark wrapping paper or the like...

RE: Stoners, soapstone suck light out of room

To be honest, I really don't notice it much -- and not every day -- mainly just on dark, rainy days, which we've had a lot of lately. It's a fairly light room anyway, and we have light colored cabinets on the perimeter, which helps offset the counters.

I should probably mention that the rest of my house is done in pastels. I'm not used to decorating in black and grey tones. (And on an everyday basis, my soapstone is really more of a matte charcoal color, not a black.)

posted by starpooh @ 9:11 PM   0 comments